华伦天奴 Valentino 2018 秋冬时装发布会!屋顶秧田工装
Something is going very right at Valentino. It would be hard to name another designer in the establishment echelons of fashion who is putting out a more inclusive, relatable and unforced sense of modern elegance than Pierpaolo Piccioli. After his sensationalhaute couture collection in January, it was hard to believe that he could follow up so quickly with a different, but equally nuanced ready-to-wear show. “Romanticism”, he called it. “It’s a strength today, if you’re able to be assertive but not aggressive.”
How to put it? Where so many other designers have sought to meet these fraught times with throwbacks to eighties power-woman shoulder-padded templates, Piccioli has found a new cadence of expression. It includes flowing lines, flowers, layers, scalloped edges, and a vibrant, sophisticated color-sense. For evening, there was a wealth of options to cover all occasions, according to the person a woman might be. It might mean flowing, completely covered up gowns or ankle-length, A-line tunics with slim trousers beneath. It embraced tailoring in a fresh way, producing combinations of jackets over dresses over pants. Piccioli handled both minimalism, in spare, dramatic shapes, and decorative embellishment in blown-up floral appliques and jacquards.